LONGEST BUS RIDE EVER!

2/27/08

K, a quick update on my journey in the land of Moskito (I don't know about the etymology of that word, but the region is named after the people inhabiting it. I don't know if that is their own name for themselves, or if the English named them that after the bug that plagues this area like crazy. I'm more bitten than I have ever been. Most hotels, and most houses as well, are equipped with mosquito nets, but it does not help much. I should be on my antimalarials, but after the side effects in India, I am more than a little wary. Plus I figure that these people live their whole lives here without them, so why should I be lucky enough to have them?).

So after lazing around for a while yesterday after my large serving of turtle, I decided to go and investigate the situation with the lobster fishermen and the possibility of paying them to take me to the Moskito Cayes. I didn't know where to go, so I walked towards the water. I saw a place called Bar Marina, and figured that this place would probably have connections to the seafaring individuals I was looking for. I ordered a Tona (Toneya), a surprisingly good, and unique tasting local beer. I started chatting up the owner and told him that I was hoping to go the Moskito Cayes, and asked if lobster fishermen would be able to give me a ride out there. His response was promising and he instructed me to go to the peir, just a few blocks away. I started walking there, and once I got within view of the dock, I asked someone else about who to speak with. The pointed me toward the beach, where it looked like there were a few skiffs. As I walked away, he called out to look for Miss June or Jane or some generic girl's name, I don't remember. On the stairs I ran into a couple of friendly old men, one of African descent, and one that looked Moskito, but he spoke in English with an African accent like in Belize. They pointed to a boat coming in and said it had just come in from the Cayes, so it would not be going again any time soon. In fact, the old men told me that no boats would not be going out for another three months. I had a hard time believing that, so I went down and asked one of the guy's from the returning boat if there were any boats going out tomorrow. He didn't know for sure, but if there were, they'd be leaving at 8 in the morning. If I come down at that time, there is a chance that one is going and it could take me.

On the way back I ran into a German guy who has been working here for four years with an NGO. He told me he's never been out there because the Cayes are so frequently used by drug runners, and there is a reputation for piracy around there as well. That worried me slightly, but seriously, what kind of pirate goes after a lobster boat? Well, I guess I would. I had lobster once, and it is worth pirating for.

I went back and told Tio (Belgian guy) about the possibility of the boat. I figured this town would be where we parted, but he sounded interested in going to the islands.

So this morning Tio and I went to the pier. On the street just above the beach there were a few large sea turtles on their backs. They were all quickly thrown into a cart, or dragged down the street by the buyers of the freshly arrived sea fare. As we walked down the stairs to the beach there were more of the turtles being carried up. And on the beach at least fifty huge turtles lay on their back, fins tied together. A crowd of people crowded around, picking out which one they wanted to take home.

I went and asked someone who was loading up a boat where they were headed. Sandy Bay, he told me. He said he didn't know of anyone going out to the cayes today, but there was one going tomorrow he thought. Another guy came up and started negotiating fares for me to go out there. This was of course a private charter he wanted to sell me, in which I would have to pay for all the gas. That would have been a couple hundred dollars, so I told him no, but he kept wanting to discuss it. I changed the subjects and asked how much those turtles go for. About 200-500 lempiras, or 10-25 dollars. Wow. And aren't these things in danger too?

I turned to Tio.

Did you hear that? I asked.

Yeah, it's disgusting, he said, just before walking away.

Well jeez, I mean, it's sad to see all these helpless turtles, i thought, but this is the people's culture. This is their food. If these fishermen couldn't catch turtles for a living, what would they do? Plus, I don't think that they were doing anything illegal. The man told me that turtle season ends in just a couple days. No more turtle fishing for three months. Maybe that's the nesting season or something. Even if these are the endangered turtles, what would happen if someone came into America, telling us we could no longer eat beef. Yep, all those cows are now protected and you'll have to do without one of your most popular foods. I know your people have been eating it for hundreds of years, but you understand, right?

I chatted around some more, but it sounded like lobster season was ending as well, and it was very unlikely to get a fishing boat from this pier. They said I would have better luck out at the Sandy Bay. A guy offered to take us there for an arm and a leg in his boat, but I declined, as I wanted to see what Tio had to say. I waited for him to return as I waited for another 20 or 30 minutes. I don't know where he went. I had barely even told him that we might be out of luck. Maybe he just wanted to get away from the turtles. I went back up to the road but could not find him. He must have walked back to the hotel. I grabbed a cab heading back there, but he was not in the hotel. Maybe he stopped for breakfast? Nope, waited around all day, and he never came back. I have no idea what made him leave without saying anything. I didn't mind too much. I hate making a big deal out of things, but that was really odd. I just hope that they give me a break on the room we shared, and don't make me pay double.

In other news, my stomach has been off all day. Twisting all over the place, many times to the bathroom. Turtle? I really didn't eat more than that yesterday except for some bread and a coconut. So...yeah, I guess that's what I get for eating a potentially endangered species. But come on, when in Rome... I didn't really eat much all day, but the ice cream cone went right through me. I figured that this was a good time for some greasy food, as there was less danger of calories. Did I just say that?

So fried chicken it was. I asked for the side to be of plantain chips, no cabbage. Then the woman serving me said something about yucca, and I said I had plenty of food already. Then she said something about water and yucca. I didn't really understand, but I figured that she was talking about some yucca drink. Sure, I said. She quickly grabbed my plate, dumped the plantain chips I had been craving back into the bucket, and put to large hunks of tasteless boiled yucca on my plate. If this wasn't motivation to improve my Spanish, I don't know what is. I needed something to wash it down with, so I asked for some of their pineapple juice (think lemonade, but with pineapples). I figured this would make up for the bland yucca. Well, the pineapple this juice was made with had definitely fermented, thus destroying my hopes for a cold tasty beverage. I really think this country is out to destroy my stomach. I hope that Managua has better food than this. Mexico and Guatemala, and even El Salvador and Belize, really spoiled me with great food. I'm sure in a big city I'll do better.

2/29/08

Woo! I'm in Managua. And before I get into this, I would just like to say that you do not appreciate pavement. And neither did I, until I spent the first 20 hours of a 24 bus ride on a washboard dirt road.

I got to the bus station around 8:00 for the 9:00 AM bus (I had heard they leave early if it fills up). Well, I had been told the wrong time, and it actually didn't leave until 10:00. I was assigned to the seat right above the wheel well. When I tried to switch seats (the bus was about half full) the bus assistant guy put me back in my proper seat. Sweet. 24 hours over a wheel well.

I'm not going to go into much detail about the ride, other than that it was pretty brutal. I am very sore, tired, bruised, nauseous. But...I've got a sweet room in Managua right now. Private bathroom, fan, TV! with cable! I'm watching CNN and the BBC! in English! And it's only $6/night. It is more than I would normally want to pay, but since I won't be spending much money on buses for a few weeks, I figure I can afford it.

Also, I started laughing to myself about the name of Managua. Man-agua. Man water.